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About Ivan03Rus

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  1. I found a good alternative to $1200+ daylight viewable monitors. New Seetec (Feelworld trademark) FW279S is superbright. 2200 cd/m2 in specs. In practice easy viewable in direct sunlight where my old 450 cd/m2 monitor still unreadable. Super sharp and equiped with focus peaking, histogram and other assistant functions. HDMI/SDI without cross conversion. NP batteries or 12v powered. Lightweight, plastic housing but strong enough. Good and acourate colors in user mode. http://www.feelworld.cn/ShowInfo.aspx?id=598&py=FEELWORLD-FW279S-7-Inch-2200nit-Daylight-Viewable-Camera-Field-Monitor-3G-SDI-4K-HDMI-Input-Output-1920X1200-IPS-Panel I think for now this is a best daylight monitor for the money. No LUT, no vectorscopes etc. But for $340 i.e 1/4 of IKAN SAGA 7" an excellent work-horse.
  2. On this forum I saw many good ways for attaching the monitor to the glidecam console. And try many of them by myself. But for my setup: HD4000 + X10 in 4 spring mode with 18.5 lbs (8.23 kg) sled weight and 10 lbs (4.5 kg) on the top - I need setup that can give me more control and freedom of movement with sled at the side of the operator like with "big" steadycam setup like M1 for example. And real control of dynamic balance. Which I did not receive under other conditions. And inspired by Tom Blount setup I start to try different monitor mount schemas and check these mass distribution for dynamic balance according to Jerry Holway calculation method. And after 8 months of experiments I receive setup that perfectly fit my demands. And because battery assembly can be preciesely moved on 15 mm LWS rods I can receive real dynamic balance easily and later adjust it by predictable way on the stage when sled configuration must be changed (when for example follow focus, transmitter etc. added) So I'm absolutely happy to work with this setup and decided to share this solution so that those who are shooting with a similar configuration could do an upgrade )) Because of this forum image attachment restrictions I can't post more imags here and upload them to https://yadi.sk/a/_-MzjeJNbDX07Q enjoy ) The main construction idea is to using worldwide accessible parts and simple math so anyone can easily make this upgrade. This setup mainly built from low-cost SMALLRIG parts who Eric Zhong from SMALLRIG Official Store https://smallrig.aliexpress.com/store/2136034 kindly helped to match and two DIY brackets from sheet metal. Camera on top is my training setup with Nikon D5200 in cage and a approx 2kg weight plate from below. The idea is that I can use this camera for my projects or change it on the stage to a heavier one with one system sense. I now many steadycam operator learn & work this manner. So setup will work with BMCC, Sony FS7 or other huge camera that fit into HD4000/X10 weight range. Monitor in setup is Apputure VS-1 (1.17 lbs / 530g) + 4x120g CW (1.06 lbs / 480g) so Transvideo or BMVA 7" or Athomos can be easily set up. Battery is SONY NP-970 (0.65 lbs / 300g) with 3x120g CW (0.8 lbs / 360g) so IDX Battery can be used too. If someone have an interest - later I can post photos of assembly stages and links to used parts. Best regards, Ivan
  3. I found an MustHD monitors https://www.musthd.com/collections/hyper-brite-monitor it seems to be heavy 830g but really bright 2200 nits with $499 price. And I want to ask, someone have an experience of using of MystHD monitors in real work ?
  4. Thank you Tom, great idea, will think about matte film ))
  5. Thank you a lot Tom for this info ! You give an great options, will see these monitors )) And little tweak from the shooting of the freestyle wrestling championship this weekend: in my Aputure VS-1 monitor I see that 6500k preset is about 126/128/130 RGB value. And this seriously attenuate brightness but when I set 235/250/255 - picture seems much brighter in the sunlight. May be this trick be useful for someone )
  6. I use Aputure VS-1 with 250-300 cd/m2 on bottom of HD4000 with X-10 arm usually the console is not in front of me, but on the side. In closed space or without direct sunlight outdoor setup work well. But in direct sunlight I literaly still blind when focusing and even framing. Even with any sort of sunhoods. So start to thinking about daylight viewable monitors and I want to ask advice from those who shoot a lot in bright sunlight: which monitor in these conditions you use? I understand about 'mature' Transvideo CineMonitor HD6 eSBL or TVLOGIC SRM-074W-N but it cost of above $3k and I want to understand whether there is a more afordable alternative? We don't have an good rental house nearby so I can't compare different models and slightly confused that real brightness is required for this kind of outdoor shooting 700/1000/1500 nits or may be an maximum availlable 2200 nits ? And especially is interested about BMVA 7 (Blackmagic videoassist 7") do it really viewable outdoor? May be somebody use it and can help with choice. Best regards, Ivan
  7. Yes, thank you for advice! About DGS I think of course, but for this time it not fit on my budget ))) I'm only starting to steadycam shooting. Now shoot on relatively lightweight setup with NIKON D5200. With cage, monitor, mic, battery, etc (4-8 lbs in total on top) on HD4000 / X10. And camera only on small handheld XR-1000. Modified with these washes + 200 g DIY weight plate bellow top-plate + 2,3,5,8 g magnets on bottom CW + PL200 QR plate with screwed stop-washer in front that allows the camera to slide only right-to-place. With these tricks (and finely calibrated gimbal of course ))) I can setup/check the balance on the set for less than 3-5 min with any lens etc. And really love how 'naked' D5200 feel on well-tuned handheld XR ))) in any close space This is because came the thought to share this trick )
  8. I think everyone here knows about difficulties, when you try to balance XR-Series quickly ) Even with a magnet trick it may be an awesome task )) You find a balance, then begin to tighten the screws ... and you have to start again, especially with the side-to-side balance. This is due to the large gaps between the slots in the moving parts of the top plate and the screws. As soon as you loosen all top-plate screws, you can see this wobbling between moving parts. I thought about DIY profile washers like on XR-PRO or HD series and found an easy solution. A needle plastic tip of a 2 or 5 ml syringe ( I work in the hospital )) has just the same dimension. You can buy 8 pcs in any pharmacy, then cut plastic tips as shown on the photos off to 2-2.5 mm. And then place them face down on the table and partially cut sides as shown on the drawing. Put them on glidecam screws. And receive silky-smooth top-plate transition in both directions and secure fixation after tightening these screws. Really helpful while balancing )) It moves almost like on HD series. On the bottom plate of HD series this trick also goes well ) wings start to move smo-o-thly and without any side-to-side vibrations.. So no need to rebalance system after moving wings. Enjoy ))