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About Steffen

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    Glidecam, Steadicam
  1. Hi Tom, thank you for making this clear. I assumed that that only the arm makes the difference. Another question, which is important: Is the X-45 sled built to carry up 45 pound cameras or are the 45 pound the weight of the whole sled, including camera, monitor, batteries etc? If it is the latter, the possible camera weight the gimbal can bear would be drastically decreased. I ask because I want to combine the sled with a Sachtler Artemis arm, which can easily carry Alexa cameras with accessories. But can the sled, especially the gimbal handle it? Steffen
  2. Yes, it is still available. Are you interested?
  3. What are the visual differences between the X-30 and the X-45 sled? How do I know which sled is which?
  4. I have a very rarely used Glidecam X-20 spring arm for sale. It is almost as new because I used the arm only a few times. There are only a few small scratches. The arm is for cameras up to 20 pounds. 1000 €. Buyer pays shipping. Location: Germany.
  5. Thank you for the explanation. I always set the vest up like you explained. One problem is that the shoulder straps cannot be tightened any further. I wrote this in my initial posting. The buckles are at the positions where the velcro is stitched on the should pads. When I reduce the chest plate, the hip pad comes too high and sit on top of my hip (maybe that's why you wrote "waist portion"). This heavily hurts my hip. Regarding to many operators and my own experiences the hip pad should be around your hip in the manner that the hip bone should be centered behind the hip pad. I always do it like this and my legs don't hit the lower portion of the vest regardless. But no matter what length the chest plate is, the v-shaped upper part is always too low because of the shoulder straps. There the height looks okay but under heavy load chest plate comes down much more and rest approximately at the height just above where my nipples are. It would be better if there were a little strap from the back pad to the hip pad which could hold the back pad down behind my back when the vest is under load. I think I should handcraft one myself. Unfortunately, I can't afford the X-30 vest.
  6. When I shorten the chest plate it is getting worse. The hip pad comes higher and does not rest on my hip anymore but is somewhere on my waist. All the weight is carried by my shoulders then. The v-shaped upper part of the chest plate is still very low. This vest never fitted well despite of how I adjusted it.
  7. I use my X-22 front mount vest for many years. I can operate hours without a break with it but it does not fit very well. The shoulder straps can't be tightened any further but the v-shape of the front plate still sits somewhere on my breast. It should be higher, just a bit below my shoulders. You can see it in this picture: I am a tall and slim person. Do you think this vest will never fit my body well and another would be better? Steffen
  8. I am selling a Glidecam V25 in very good condition including a brand new C-stand and two aluminium cases for the rig. Find the offer on eBay: International shipping is possible although not offered on eBay. If you are interested, please contact me first. Steffen
  9. What is the reason that Glidecam discontinued the design of the V25 arm? The diagonal spring is the key that the arm does not wobble while running. I miss it with the newer arms, where all springs are parallel. Steffen
  10. Maybe my very old video tutorial helps (see links below). It is in German though but you can activate subtitles. Please, don't look at my Glidecam too closely. It was my old one and I had some MacGyver-like additions to power the monitor. Oh boy! On Vimeo:
  11. Good that you finally managed it! What I suggested was to extend the post, not the base plate. The only influence the extension or retraction of the base plate has is on the inertia when you pan. When you make the base plate longer (the weights are farer away from the post) it is "harder" to pan but the post remains better in one direction and vice versa. When you extend the post = make it longer, the sled is more stable but it is harder to tilt and roll. You have to know how your shooting will be and then you set your sled up to meet the need.
  12. I found it out myself. Only the two screws of the yoke which hold the gimbal have to be adjusted.
  13. The topic says it all. How do I do it for myself? Thank you, Steffen
  14. I suggest that you rough tune the balances with the weights and fine tune them with the adjustment knobs. Just as I wrote before. Playing around with the weights of course alters the balance more dramatically than the knobs. You wrote in your first post that your base is not flush with the stage. You should avoid this. If the gimbal makes the post turn when you move the handle than the bearings in the gimbal have too much friction. Did you operate on a beach, in a dusty environment or when it was wet and damp outside? All these situation can bring dust into your gimbal. If you are an advanced hobby mechanic you could open it and clean it, at least blowing out the dirt. Try this: Achieve static balance with a quite long droptime (3 seconds). Then turn the post 90° and make it settle. Does the post still hangs perfectly upright? Does it when you turn the post further 90°? If not, your gimbal needs to be calibrated. Ask Tom or the internet how to do it. You wrote that faster movements make the post leaning into certain directions. Do I understand you right? Try this: Balance the Glidecam statically with a droptime between 2,5 and 3 seconds (better 3). Hold it in your hand and settle it. Now move it in sudden motions in all different directions for approx. 2 seconds and suddenly stop these movements. If everything is okay the Glidecam should still hang upright and should not wobble. If not, you have too much weight on top or on the base or your droptime is not good. You can observe this in this way: When you move forward and the camera looks downhill you have too much weight on the base or a too short droptime. If the camera looks uphill there is too less weight on the base (or too much on top of course) or the droptime is too long. Now turn yourself some degree like you would do when you run around corners or make sharp turns. The Glidecam should mainly point to its initial direction during these movements. Come to a halt. The post could slowly turns a little bit further, but not much. Remember, for this experiment you should have achieved dynamic balance. If this test makes the post turn too much than there is definitely too much friction in the gimbal.
  15. Your are right. When you put the camera's c.g. slightly behind the c.g. of the post it will tip backwards. That's why you have to compensate this with the weight at the bottom and not with the adjustment knobs. It sounds illogical but it works. I sometimes have a JVC ProHD GY-HD250U or similar camera on my rig. This camera is quite long, even longer with a video transmitter and flash recording device mounted at the back. I have to put the camera's c.g. approx. 2 cm behind the post. When your camera is really side heavy, you do it correct like you do it. Find the side-to-side c.g. of the camera with a pen or on the legs of your C-stand and mount it appropriately to the stage. Then fine tune it with the adjustment knob and that's it.