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Rebalancing Every Time I Take The Camera Off The Glidecam

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Everytime I take my camera off the glidecam and then put it back on, I have to rebalance it all over again. Any tips? I've tried numerous quick release plates from 3rd party vendors(now im back to the qr plate that came with the hd2000)I've made sure all the screws are on tight, but it seems that even the slightest amount of yaw rotation, etc. puts it out of balance. Is that's a common problem for anyone else?

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Everytime I take my camera off the glidecam and then put it back on, I have to rebalance it all over again. Any tips? I've tried numerous quick release plates from 3rd party vendors(now im back to the qr plate that came with the hd2000)I've made sure all the screws are on tight, but it seems that even the slightest amount of yaw rotation, etc. puts it out of balance. Is that's a common problem for anyone else?

I am pretty new to Glidecam but it appears that if you have it balanced properly (slightly bottom heavy with a drop time of 2.5 -3 seconds) then it is common to have to rebalance after removing camera. I have read this is common not only to Glidecam but other types and manufacturers also. Samll changes are made in the overall balance during the removal and replacement of the camera. The fine tuning will get easier and faster. The heavier the camera the easier it will be. If the rig is too bottom heavy it probably won't get out of balance that easy but the videos will show too much sway from side to side. We'll see if anyone agrees with me.

Edited by mchurgin

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I am pretty new to Glidecam but it appears that if you have it balanced properly (slightly bottom heavy with a drop time of 2.5 -3 seconds) then it is common to have to rebalance after removing camera. I have read this is common not only to Glidecam but other types and manufacturers also. Samll changes are made in the overall balance during the removal and replacement of the camera. The fine tuning will get easier and faster. The heavier the camera the easier it will be. If the rig is too bottom heavy it probably won't get out of balance that easy but the videos will show too much sway from side to side. We'll see if anyone agrees with me.

Hi smoak5 and mchurgin

I'm quite new at this myself yet there are a few things I've found that may be helpful to you both. I use a Canon 5D mark3 and a 16-35mm L II lens and a 60D with a EF-S 10-22mm mounted on an HD2000 and the Smoothshooter system.

Both cameras are mounted using a Manfrotto 357 sliding mount system (scribed for position). Since I mounted the Manfrotto 357 mount (and the extra weight below, the system has become more stable).

smoak5, are you using lenses that zoom by extension? if that is the case, the remounting process will never end due to new centers of the triangle as the lens shifts weight to the camera's center of gravity. (just checking...same goes for lens hoods, filters, etc)

Joe Simon uses the same system as myself (without the Smoothshooter) yet he uses an HD4000. The extra length and weight makes it easier to keep the sled stable due to the extra counterweights on top and on the bottom of the triangle.

However, I've found that by using the 2 to 2.5 second drop, it gives the HD2000 rig more stability.

As for sway, mchurgin, I have a bit of a gait due to a hip replacement 10 years ago. Orthodics have almost solved that issue. But yes, I agree with you, if the sled bottom is too heavy it picks up the natural motion of pelvic rotation. I'm also practising what I call the 'sneak walk' by lowering my stance to keep my upper body as smooth as possible. Not sure where I read this on the web but if you use a vest and arm, the bottom of the vest has to be higher than your hips or all the motion at mid body is transferred to the rig. By experience that is a fact.

Guys, please let me know if this info helps, so we can learn from each other.

Regards

Overexposed

Edited by Overexposed

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