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Balance Issue With Panasonic Sd900 & Hd1000

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Posted · Report post

So i have my Panasonic SD900 on a Giottos MH652 Quick Release Adapter Plate and HD1000. Drop time is 2.5s. The Giottos has 3 way bubble levels which i have used to set up forward back left right.I have watched your ( TOM's) set up videos. Ok problems are when i drop test the glidecam it starts to spin very slowly as it drops. In all the videos i have watched is seems to stay straight. Also when i hold it still it's fine but as soon as i move forward it again starts to slowly turn left. If i thrust it forward and back as shown in the videos it will slowly turn left. Is it possible that the movement of the little bubble levels on my Giottos can upset it ? Many people seem to recommend the use of these bubble levels to aid setting up balance. Also a spend ages tweaking the forward back left right movement with the top plate controls until it's balanced but as soon as i tighten the top plate side and bottom screws it goes out of balance again by a small amount but enough to be slightly leaning left or right. I know it's a fine art to set but i'm not sure if i'm being too fussy or doing it totally wrong. Also having real trouble using my left guiding hand without making the glidecam wobble like crazy but i realise that is a practise practise practise issue. Tom Please help ...

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Posted · Report post

Hi Paw Paw

Based on your description you will need to slightly adjust the central bearing on your Glidecam HD-1000 to center.

Here are the instructions that we provide for gimbal calibration and useful video;

Instructions;

The cover of the Glidecam 1000 central bearing can be loosened via a size 10 torx head screw, then four small set screws (size 1/16” allen wrench) found on the intersecting line, perpendicular to one another on the sides of the central bearing, can be adjusted to calibrate the alignment, centering the bearings alignment resulting in greater performance.

See the following link for more information on Torx tools; www.torxtools.com

*A bubble level is recommended for during calibration. It is also advisable that during calibration the vertical balance is at 2.5 to 3 second drop time.

The bubble should be level at 0, 90, 180, and 270 degrees;

Step 1:

Horizontally balance the Glidecam 1000 at 0 degrees.

Step 2:

Turn camera 180 degrees; if out of alignment adjust the downward side of the yoke via the small set screws by turning the screw clockwise, in-turn "pushing" the central bearing in the opposite direction. Start by only making 1 to 2 rotations of the adjustment set screws, as this is incremental adjustment, (.032” per rotation) and does right slight adjustments. Move to step 3.

During this process you must also loosen the counter set screw back-stop, opposite screw from the ‘active adjustment set screw’, one on the ‘downward’ side of the yoke.

Step 3:

Then rotate Glidecam 1000 back to 0 degrees and horizontally balance using the camera.

Step 4:

Then rotate back to 180 degrees, if still out of alignment repeat steps 2-4.

Step 5:

Repeat steps 2-4 for 90 and 270 degrees. (this may take several attempts)

Step 6:

Once balanced on the 0-90, and 180-270, lock torx head screws on cover.

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Posted · Report post

Hi Tom i'm just slightly confused as we have not had any conversation nor have i sent any photos....?

So are you still saying i need to calibrate my gimbal ?

Thanks

PawPaw

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Posted · Report post

Apologizes for the confusion, let me rephrase that, as based on your description it is most like that your gimbal is out of calibration.

Can you verify that this is the case.

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Posted · Report post

Apologizes for the confusion, let me rephrase that, as based on your description it is most like that your gimbal is out of calibration.

Can you verify that this is the case.

Ok i checked and the 0 - 180 was out but the 90 and 270 were fine.. I calibrated the 0-180.. Not fully tested but i did the thrust forward and back and the slight spin had gone away so that looks very promising to me. I just got a new lens today so i now gotta re-balance anyway so once i have set up and tested i'll let you know the result...

Are there any videos or guides on how to use your guiding hand ?

Thanks for your help so far

regards PawPaw

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Posted · Report post

Have you seen this post and video(s);

http://www.glidecamforum.com/conf/index.php?showtopic=832

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Posted · Report post

Oh yes they were the first ones i watched. Great info but i'd like to know more holding/guiding techniques

Regards PawPaw

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Posted · Report post

I do not have a video on this right now, however, gentle application of pressure to achieve desired framing - many times, if you have achieved the desired framing it is not necessary to use the guiding hand. If the frame looks great, do not apply any pressure to the central post with the guiding hand.

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Posted · Report post

Just do the calibration. Now, my HD 4000 works perfect. Dynamic balance is also fine. Thank you for your assistance

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Posted · Report post

Excellent. Thank you

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Posted · Report post

I am so glad I found this, I can now work on getting that balance with the gimbal.

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Posted · Report post

...

Step 6:

Once balanced on the 0-90, and 180-270, lock torx head screws on cover.

Hi Tom,

The info in this forum and the calibration video have been very helpful to me in getting to grips with the Glidecam 2000.

The calibration procedure is clear to me, however, I wonder about the set crews after calibration has been accomplished.

Should the loosened set screws on the sides of the central bearing be tightened before or after the cover of the central bearing has been fastened through the size 10 torx head screw ... or at all?

My first rough eye balling calibration made things much, much better. However I did 'tighten' the set screws before tightening the cover of the central bearing.

This, I suspect, is not right, and as I want to proceeed with a more precise calibration, I thought I'd ask the question here.

Regards, Martyn

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Posted · Report post

Hi Martyn,

Once you acheive the correct balance, simply fasten the 'torx' screws to 'lock' the position or coordinates, if you will, of the calibration adjustments that have been made.

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