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  1. Today
  2. A couple of things: 1: what is the total weight on top? 2: How does the balancing react at the 4 compass points N,S, E,W at a drop time of around 2.5-2.75 seconds? As you go to a slower drop time the balancing in all directions is more difficult with lighter setups. You can get it but you might need to calibrate the gimbal. Search this forum for gimbal calibration video from Glidecam. You will also find a post with directions on how to do it. With the HD 1000 it will perform at its best if you can get the top weight to 3lbs or even a little higher, than you can add all the bottom weights.
  3. Hey all. I just bought a glidecam HD1000 off of my friend. He used it twice and I got a good deal so I bought it. It seems to work fairly well (I have lots of practice to do). I find it hard to pan without it going off balance. I havent really grasped the trapping technique. IIt may be a symptom of the lighter glidecam model and weight of my setup in general. The real problem is I can get it to balance when I hold the handle at the rear position (clsoer to my body) but when I try to hold the handle out front (How devin graham suggests to hold it) the unit instantly starts to tip to the right (im right handed) I dont know if this is a problem with the gimbal. I have done the drop test as well. Ive had it at 3 seconds, now I have it at about 4-5 seconds as it seems to be more forgiving. I dont know exactly what the issue is. Ive also extended the wings to the max position because ive read that it makes it more stable but I didnt really notice a difference so I put them back in as they have a smaller footprint that way. I feel maybe adding weight would help but I cant just add weight to the bottom. My setup: Panasonic G85 with either Rokinon 12mm F2 or 12-60 kit lens. I plan on getting a Giottos M621 QR plate and either a 7-14 F4 or 7-14 f2.8. Either of which will add a bit of weight with the latter being more significant.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Prague in 4K with Glidecam
  6. No, all posted videos are normal speed. Just when I was playing them - to say - 2 x normal I could see movement better. Anyway - thanks for all the help and tips, I could get Iglide II fly quite well in four weeks! Progress goes on...
  7. Setup my HD 2000 with more weight on top. Added a battery grip and some additional Glidecam weights on top plate. Total weight is about 3.8 lbs ( 60.80 oz) Thanks Howard
  8. I didn't realize the first video was slo mo. That will always make it look better. If you want to improve I suggest not slowing the footage down so you can work on your technique. The slight bouncing/forward footsteps at the end of the frame is very difficult to hide ( unless you use slo mo) The wider the lens the better it will look.
  9. Last week
  10. Yes, you should check in with on this. Excessive moisture and humidity contributes to the oxidization effect which will lead to rusting, etc... At this point you'd be in need of replacement. To avoid this type of situation we recommend applying a small film of Vaseline on the metal surfaces of the Central Bearing... This will eliminate the moisture from creating rust and oxidize on the metal, while not effecting the performance of the central bearing... Just a small, hand applied, application of Vaseline, to a new clean bearing with solve eliminate this from happening. In your case, again; email and we can find a solution for your on what to do next.
  11. Glidecam iGlide is a great lightweight, durable, quality USA Made, hand-held stabilizer designed for us with lightweight cameras up to 16 ounces. Then, there is the Glidecam iGLIDE 2 which is designed from cameras from 8 ounces up to 3 lbs. in weight. If you're looking to use only the Canon 100D and GoPro Hero 4 then the Glidecam iGlide would be a nice and introduction into Glidecam hand-held stabilizers, provideo smooth footage for all of your Parkour needs. Tempest Freerunning - had the Glidecam iGlide available in Orange, which they sold to video enthusiasts looking to create their own video production
  12. The Glidecam Vista Head Control Box is available for purchase direct at Glidecam Part orders are handled through the Glidecam parts department, which you can call at 800-600-2011 or 781-585-7900 between the hours of 9-4 PM EST. You can also email Cheryl at I hope this helps.
  13. Hi folks So my new gear just arrived yesterday and I've spent the past 24 hours trying to get to grips with it, without much success, yet. I'm trying to fly a Sony FS700 with a Canon 24-105 lens. I can just about get the sled balanced on it's own, but seem to run into problems when attaching in to the arm and vest. The suggested maximum load capacity of the HD4000 is 10lbs. OK. The Smooth Shooter manual states the optimum weight for the two-spring smooth shooter is an 18lb load. Hmmm, ok. Currently my total weight of the camera & sled is around 11lbs. (3 weights on either side). So to get to the optimum weight, means adding around 7lbs of (unneccessary?) weight. Is this the right thing to do? Can the gimbal support the extra weight addition, and if it can, then why is the suggested max load 10lbs? And if I add the weight to the bottom of the sled, then this completely messes with the fall time. The pole is already at almost the shortest setting, so I'm unable to compensate with that any further. This is my first time experimenting with any sort of stabilization, and now I can fully appreciate it is an art in itself. Any guidance is most welcome! Thanks Andy
  14. Today no wind but new snow coming. Did some fine tuning and went to shoot short clip on the same path. This starts to look good now to me, there is no more fast right-left jerk, just slow tiny movement. When played with faster speed I can see clearly up-down from walking but this is more practicing the right way to walk than adjusting?
  15. Well had some time again to play with Iglide II. I think I found now the best balance! Just for sure checked the center of gravity of my camera+lens and found out I have to move it back. So now the front-back center is laying on the central post and I could put same amount of weights on both sides. After quick balancing (learned now to do it pretty fast) I went for test and it's again better! There is not much left-right pan movement anymore. The feel is also steadier now, stays in direction and level. So Sony A7S + Samyang T1.5/24mm and Manfrotto 577 quick release plate is weighting just a bit over 3 pounds (I think it was something like 30 grams over). I need to attach the quick release plate with bigger screw in to the farthest, second from the left hole in the head plate. Then 3 big weights in both sides of wings. We have strong wind here at the moment so it was difficult to find a place to do good test, but should be better tomorrow, hope to get some test footage again...
  16. Earlier
  17. Hello, I am sorry if this question has been asked a million times already. I've got a brand new x-10 and DGS combo. The camera that I'm using is a Canon 1dx MKII with 24-70 lens typically (until I can afford a super wide angle). But currently the x-10 is in 4 spring mode which is too heavy and the arm is too high. Is there a video tutorial online somewhere that I can see how to remove the additional spring? Having a terrible time figuring it out. There was no stainless steel post in the box when I got my vest, so should I load up the DGS with weight to make it weigh roughly 11-12lbs instead of 9? Thanks for any advice!
  18. Here's a few Glidecam Centurion Videos that might be helpful; Glidecam Centurion - Setup Glidecam Centurion - Balance
  19. Drop time is now 2,5 seconds. I think also that it is right hand moving back and forth and even with bearing causing post to twist millimeter or so...
  20. That looks pretty good. The left to right does not look like sway, it looks like your right hand moving. The guiding hand needs to lightly keep framing accurate. Also it is very difficult to shoot inanimate objects like that especially as a beginner. What was your drop time, it seemed very smooth with no visible footsteps, even in the snow.
  21. Here is a short clip of newest result with calibrated gimbal. I think the vertical balance is now very good, but there is still left-right movement. I haven't got used yet to use my guiding hand a lot, I usually prefer to aim the camera and walk with my right hand only so I think there would be less interference? Should I be able to keep the left-right axis still with guiding fingers? Or could it be that (I believe) cameras center of gravity is front of the post?
  22. I'm trying to figure out how much weight my rig should be able to support: smooth shooter vest + hd 4000 The hd 4000 claims to support 4-10 lbs. The smooth shooter vest claims to support 9 lbs with one spring or 18 pounds with two springs (stabilizer and camera included). Say my whole stabilizer rig (without vest/arm) is at about 7 lbs. That would mean that the smooth shooter vest/arm should be able to support roughly another 11 (7 + 11 = 18). If I put 11+ lbs on my hd 4000 while its attached to my smooth shooter vest am I overdoing it? Also, I realize that nothing answers this question better than the experience itself and its end-result product. But I'd also like the theoretical answer (or your own experience if you've run something similar). Lots of lower-end professional camera rigs are running around 11-12 lbs and I'd like to know if I'm chasing the wind flying them on my glidecam rig before I actually attempt it. Thanks guys!
  23. Thanks Mchurgin for encouraging to calibrate! Easy to do, altough took 3 hours but it is much much better now. Stays level in all compass directions! I just need to practice more, as I tested now this evening (in moonlight with A7S and -15 celcius) there is still slight left-right movement and up-down walk jitter.
  24. don't waste more time trying to balance. Do the gimbal calibration. Its very easy just take your time. Also best to do it with about a 2-1/2 to 2-3/4 sec drop time. any slower than that will be very difficult and temperamental.
  25. Been playing with my Iglide II a bit and getting slightly better. Needs practice, but I still think the gimbal needs calibration. I cannot get camera balanced in all compass positions. As soon as I walk and handle moves somewhere between 9 o clock and 6 o clock camera starts to tilt back and bit left..
  26. Full Glidecam Gold Rig upgraded for HD-SDI by Glidecam in Massachusetts. Sled with Anton Bauer battery plates, two monitors,3 types of low mode-f bracket and 2 S hooks, camera cage, two camera plates, dual battery charger, all kinds of cables nuts and bolts and backup replacement parts.Gold Arm very smooth and capable of flying DSLRS to full size film and Digital cinema packagesVestSled Stand Hill Docking BracketDoes not include the magliner and post (just used it to display the rig and take pictures)customized pelican 1650 rolling casepelican 1610 rolling caseThe entire rig fits neatly in the two pelicans for travel.Sled has both 12 and 24volt capabilities for flying various camera systems.Has Red and Arri power cables or XLR for any camera out there.I had the entire rig looked at by Glidecam recently when I had it upgraded. The Technician told me it was the cleanest, well maintained rig that has come across his bench.This really is a nice smooth and comfortable rig for anyone looking to get into steadi or as a backup rig.Thank youTotal Price $10,500Tags: Arri camera Optimo Angenieux cooke zeiss moviecam camera arricam Panavision Red camera canon lenses motion picture lenses motion picture cameras oconner head steadicam glidecam remote head remote camera follow focus digital motion picture cameras HD cameras High Definiton camera digital video Alexa camera red epic red one red mx canon 5d mark ii Panasonic varicam sony f35 sony cinealta jvc camera 3D camera
  27. Best results so far. Put my Samyang back and got it balanced quite well. Also drop time now 3 secs (counted with analog clock ticking on the wall). When the handle is right side of central post, I found it easiest to handle and as it is cold outside, I need gloves. That handle position gives some more space for my left hand. However, it seems to be that it is well balanced only in this handle position. Once I turn the central post t(o right) it wont be well balanced anymore. Especially turning 180 degrees is total mess.
  28. Well, it went not so well after my last post. Screw was helping with fine-tuning but results were not any better. Then switched to 2.8/35mm. At least, this is much lighter and easier to operate, but as hard to balance than with Samyang. Results were not as good as I got last morning with Samyang, indeed 35mm is more sensitive to movements. When balancing setup with 35mm I noticed also that it is not balanced to all directions. Once I got it balanced with handle in clock 9, it is out of balance in all other directions. Wonder if the gimbal is out of calibration... Maybe I will switch back to Samyang as with it I got the best results so far. I'll just need a quick release plate to make it easier and also lift it a bit up, now it touches gently the head plate. Yesterday deleted all my test files so no samples this time, but I'll try to save some from today.
  29. It is very hard to make fine adjustments with that plate. The HD1000 would be much easier to accomplish this. Try moving your bottom weights out as far as they will go. That will help with panning inertia. Filming static objects like the forest with no moving subjects is very difficult to keep horizons level, no sway, no footsteps etc, especially with small rigs that don't weigh so much. Also 35 mm lens is not very forgiving. Go as wide as you can. 10-16 is ideal. Post some samples
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